Okay, I will admit it. When I heard that Harley-Davidson planned to produce an adventure motorcycle, I had significant doubts. I mean, what does a company that is known for producing big, heavy, air-cooled (and fantastic) cruisers know about the adventure motorcycle market? And how could H-D possibly compete in such a white-hot segment against the market open-class heavyweights like BMW, KTM, Triumph, Ducati, and Yamaha? Big brands that have been producing open-class adventure bikes for decades. My suspicions were further heightened when the first images of the Pan America came out. The bike looked big, heavy, and not very adventurous.
First, let’s address the elephant in the room—big adventure bikes and where people actually ride these full-size beasts. I am one of those riders. Two decades ago, when I saw a BMW GS motorcycle ad in a magazine with some cool dude riding the bike in the middle of nowhere, I thought, “This is definitely me!”
Many years and many big adventure bikes later, I am still smitten by the adventure bike class, despite learning early on that riding a 600+ pound motorcycle with a week’s worth of gear in sketchy off-road conditions is no fun for us mere mortals. There are lighter motorcycles better suited to challenging off-road riding. However, that isn’t where I feel adventure bikes shine. In my mind, big adventure bikes are ideal for touring.
Open-class adventure motorcycles are big and powerful. They can easily handle me, my gear, and a passenger in paved situations. In addition, the size of these bikes means long-distance travel on windy or 18-wheeler-filled highways does not phase them. Also, the upright seating position works very well for my 58-year-old shoulders and back, as well as providing a commanding view of the road. Finally, if I do find an interesting dirt road or trail to a remote campsite, I know the bike can do it.
So, when UM Editor Don Williams assigned me the 2023 Harley-Davidson Pan America Special for a week-long trip, I decided that I would test and evaluate it the way I ride my big adventure bikes and the way the vast majority of other large adventure bike owners ride, despite what they tell you. I’m going to do a road tour, and hit the occasional dirt road, maybe. Spoiler alert, the Motor Company nailed it.
My first impression of the Pan America Special when I picked it up was that it is much better looking and less bulky than the photos I had seen. The Pan America has a big nose up-front, but the Harley-Davidson Aluminum Side Cases ($1039/pair) balance out the bike aesthetics. Also, it came in the surprisingly attractive Industrial Yellow/White Sand livery and wire-spoke wheels (a $1000 option) shod with road-oriented, tubeless Michelin Scorcher Adventure tires. Overall, the adventure H-D is a really good-looking bike.
As I threw my leg over and straddled the bike, I was surprised to find that both of my feet were firmly flat on the tarmac. What wizardry is this? With my (at best) 31-inch inseam and Showa suspension with 7.5 inches of travel, I should not have both feet down. The credit goes to Harley-Davidson’s innovative Adaptive Ride Height system ($1200 option) that automatically lowers the suspension about an inch when traveling at slow speeds and stopping. This means more confidence and stability when you need it, without compromising comfort, ground clearance, suspension travel, or cornering clearance. Throughout the week, I was amazed by it. I never noticed it functioning, and having my feet flat on the ground at stops always felt great. This is a revolutionary feature that I imagine we will see adopted by other ADV bike manufacturers.
I planned a trip up the coast from LA to San Francisco for a few days of riding with my buddy, and back down again. The first leg of the itinerary included some Interstate and highway riding up to McKittrick to catch California Highway 58 to Santa Margarita. It’s a lightly traveled, favorite curvy road in the middle of the state, and an excellent spot to test the Pan America Special’s sporting intentions.
The first day demonstrated the Pan America Special’s versatility. On the crowded, endless straightaways of Interstate 5 through the San Joaquin Valley, it was stable, smooth, and very comfortable. The most immediate impressions were that the suspension was supple, absorbing road imperfections without being so soft that it felt mushy.
When adjusted to its higher position, the stock windscreen works perfectly with my six-foot frame to eliminate buffeting and reduce wind noise. Taller riders may want to clip on an extension for longer highway rides. The display is clear and easy to read with all the information I like to see when touring. With a dedicated “mode” button on the handlebars, I didn’t need to hunt through menus to change between Road, Sport, and Off-road ride modes.
Dropping onto Highway 58 and switching from Road mode to Sport mode firmed up the semi-active suspension and increased immediacy of power, resulting in a fantastic experience through the medley of tight canyons and wide-open valley-crossing roads. The suspension is remarkably balanced and entirely predictable. With the right amount of steering input and a bit of body English, the Pan America Special flows through turns beautifully.
The next few days of riding took me through amazing roads in Napa Valley, skirting Lake Berryessa, plus the fantastic, tight curves of the northern portion of California Highway 1 up the Sonoma Coast to Timber Cove—population 107.
The variety of roads were a great proving ground for the 2023 Harley-Davidson Pan America Special. The suspension and engine power continued to impress. With all the modern-day electronic rider aids and grippy Michelin tires, I only found the motorcycle’s limits when pushing it sportbike-hard. The Pan America’s weight—569 pounds with the 5.6-gallon fuel tank filled—and upright seating position allows for only so much speed through tight turns.
The Revolution Max 1250 motor generates a beefy flat torque curve and plenty of horsepower. However, Max’s slightly rough sound and vibey feel—intentionally kept in by Harley, I’m sure—isn’t my favorite. The vibration isn’t bad, but it is noticeable. Obviously, it’s personal preference, but I would prefer a slightly smoother engine, with a bit more bark out the back end. In addition, a fair amount of engine heat is emitted during stop-and-go riding, mainly on the right side.
However, out on the road, the engine’s characteristics and semi-active suspension make for a very sporty and fun ride. The powerband is a bit narrow—not unusual in short-stroke V-twin engines in this displacement range. I found myself hunting through the six-speed transmission more than I would have expected from a 150-horsepower engine to find the optimal cog. I would have also appreciated the $340 quickshifter option; sadly, the H-D accessory quickshifter does not yet have the stamp of approval by California bureaucrats. All that said, cracking the throttle in the right gear provides a hugely satisfying rush of engine sound and speed.
The final day of exploration took me down the peninsula from the Golden Gate to the famous Alice’s Restaurant on the beautiful Skyline Boulevard (California Highway 35). Conditions were chilly, so the Pan Am’s wind protection and heated grips were welcome, though I would have liked a bit more heat from the grips at the highest setting.
This trip was road-focused, so I didn’t get off-pavement too much. I found a few dirt roads and trails here and there. Unlike the surprise of how well the Pan Am Special handled the road, its off-road performance was as I expected it to be—nice and smooth on the bumps on uneven dirt roads, but not as happy with bigger hits or potholes.
At slower speeds, the Pan America Special reveals its weight. The Adaptive Ride Height feature alleviated that, lowering the bike when creeping along. It improves the bike’s feel and reduces the angst about getting a solid foot down on uneven terrain. Adaptive Ride Height is fantastic.
Over the next couple of days of spirited riding and many stops, a few other idiosyncrasies revealed themselves. The linked braking system actuated by the front lever is impressive, though the rear brake is a little weak when used alone. The kickstand is very wonky; I found myself having to lean the bike farther over on the opposite side to get the kickstand up and down. Given the Pan America Special’s weight, it is a bit disconcerting. The spacious panniers stick out far past the handlebar ends. Lane splitting is definitely not advised until you learn their breadth. The side cases come off easily, only requiring the release of a single latch on each box.
On the six-hour ride home to Los Angeles, I had plenty of time to think about my overall impression of the 2023 Harely-Davidson Pan America Special.
Bombing along in comfort, riding the plush semi-active suspension, and tucked in behind good wind protection, it was clear that Harley-Davidson did a remarkably good job with its first adventure bike. Its sporty feel, excellent suspension, and raucous engine put its on-road performance in the middle of the performance spectrum. It’s faster than a BMW R 1250 GS or Honda Africa Twin 1100, but no match for a Triumph Tiger 1200 or triple Ducati Multistrada V4. The Pan Am isn’t the best off-road choice in the category—that’s the KTM 1290 Super Adventure R. The Pan America’s calling card is its balance, with a stable and smooth chassis, excellent ergonomics and wind protection, and killer-app Adaptive Ride Height. That makes the 2023 Harley-Davidson Pan America Special a fantastic sport-touring bike that can handle the occasional off-road adventure well.
Action photography by Alex Cobb
RIDING STYLE
- Helmet: Shoei Neotec II
- Jacket: Iron and Resin Scrambler
- Gloves: Racer Gloves USA Kansas
- Pants: Aerostitch AD-1 light
- Boots: Sidi Armada Gore Tex
2023 Harley-Davidson Pan America Special Specs
ENGINE
- Type: Revolution Max 1250 60-degree V-twin
- Displacement: 1252cc
- Bore x stroke: 105 x 72.3mm
- Maximum power: 150 horsepower @ 9000 rpm
- Maximum torque: 94 ft-lbs @ 6750 rpm
- Compression ratio: 13.0:1
- Valvetrain: Chain-driven, DOHC, hydraulic self-adjusting lifters, intake & exhaust VVT; 4vpc
- Cooling: Liquid
- Lubrication: Semi-dry sump
- Transmission: 6-speed
- Clutch: Wet multiplate w/ assist and slipper functions
- Primary drive: Gear
- Final drive: Chain
CHASSIS
- Frame: Alloy steel stressed-member trellis w/ stamped, cast, and forged junctions
- Front suspension; travel: Fully adjustable Showa semi-active electronic fork; 7.5 inches
- Rear suspension; travel: Fully adjustable Showa semi-active electronic shock; 7.5 inches
- Wheels: Wire-spoke tubeless w/ anodized aluminum rims
- Front wheel: 19 x 3
- Rear wheel: 17 x 4.5
- Tires: Michelin Scorcher Adventure
- Front tire: 120/70 x 19
- Rear tire: 170/60 x 17
- Front brakes: 320mm floating discs w/ Brembo 4-piston caliper
- Rear brake: 280mm disc w/ floating Brembo single-piston caliper
- ABS: Cornering aware
DIMENSIONS and CAPACITIES
- Wheelbase: 62.2 inches
- Rake: 25 degrees
- Trail: 4.3 inches
- Seat height: 33.4 – 34.4 inches
- Ground clearance: 8.3 inches
- Fuel capacity: 5.6 gallons
- Estimated fuel consumption: 46 mpg
- Curb weight: 569 pounds
2023 Harley-Davidson Pan America Special Colors/Pricing:
- Vivid Black w/ cast wheels: $20,399
- Gray Haze w/ cast wheels: $20,849
- Industrial Yellow/White Sand w/ cast wheels: $21,049
- Vivid Black w/ laced wheels: $21,399
- Gray Haze w/ laced wheels: $21,849
- Industrial Yellow/White Sand w/ laced wheels: $22,049
- 2023 Harley-Davidson Pan America Special as tested: $24,288 MSRP
Note: All prices +$500 surcharge
